Posted by: cedartubs | October 21, 2008

Soaking Tubs and Japanses Ofuros

Soaking Tubs and Japanese Ofuros

When most people think of hot tubs they have the image of large acrylic tubs, jets and lots of people.  However this is not always the case.  As a matter of fact the hot tub originated not as a social means but rather a spirtitual need.   In ancient times, soaking in warm water was a way to release stress, sooth bones and muscles, and clear the mind.

The Japanese were famous for this.  They used deep wooden vessels filled with very hot water that were called Ofuros.   The bather came to spirtually unwind as they soaked in deep hot water up to their chin.  There were no jets, no TVs or parties, just tranquility!   The ofuro soaking tub remains very popular amongst thoses that want to hot tub for the means of pure relaxation.

Bathing in a soaking tub is preferred by many as a more sanitary means of enjoying a spa.  Typically a soaker tub differs from a tadional hot tub in that the water is usually drained after a couple uses.  This type of hot tubbing can be seen as a more sanitary bathing practice.   While most people do not get offended by sharing a spa, there are others that would feel more comfotable not having to share their bathing water for hygienics purposes.   Soaking tubs appeal to those that want privacy and solitude.

No Chemicals-  Unlike a hot tub or spa, soaking tub owners usualy enjoy a chemical free experience.   No chlorine or bromine is needed as water changes are more frequent.  This appeals to more and more bathers and is leading the growth in popularity of soaking tubs.

For More information on soaking tubs visit www.cedartubs.com that manufacture both traditional hot tubs and Japanse soaking tubs.  

 

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Posted by: cedartubs | October 21, 2008

Solar hot tubs and solar pools

3 Things you should know when Looking at Solar Water Heating

The advancement in solar thermal heating has resulted in cost effective solar heaters that are almost 94% efficient.  This has caused new applications such as solar hot tub heating and much more cost effective hot water heating systems for both pools and homes.  Soar Thermal Heating systems compared to Solar Photo Voltiac, are nearly 500% more efficient.    As an example the most efficient PV system on the market is only about 16% and cost per Kw is nearly double that of solar thermal.

When looking at solar water heating for pools or spas you should consider the following 3 topics before you make your solar investment:

  1. Open Loop or Closed Loop solar system
  2. Control valve to shut off solar system at night
  3. Location Location Location of solar colllectors 

1.  Open loop or closed Loop solar system is a very important decision especially if you are using salt water or lots of chemicals.  Simply, an open loop solar system means the water is circulated directly through the solar system.  This means that the chlorine in the water has direct contact with all parts.  This type of solar heating system will be the least expensive but will have the shortest life as your may find the chlorine can break down the solar collectors and other parts.  Closed Loop systems uses a heat exchanger as a barrier between the solar system fluid and the pool spa water.  While this system costs more.  The advantages are that you can run the system year round by using glycol or antifreeze.  You also will find the life expectancy of the system is greatly increased.

2. Solar Control System-  When designing a solar pool system or solar spa, you need to consider water flow.  There is no need to circulate the water through the solar system at night.  As a matter of fact, this can result in a negative heat loss.  A solar control system will have  two temperature sensors, one sensor is placed on the output side of the collectors and will measure the heat coming from the system.   The other sensor will measure the current temperature of the pool or spa.  If the heat output is greater at the spa and the water temperature is less than required (heat demand) then the system will ensure water flows through the collectors.  This is done via an automated solar bypass valve system.  At nights when the water in the pool is hotter than the solar collector, the control system will ensure the solar collector is bypassed and uses the alternative pool or spa heating system.

3.  Location-  In order for any solar system to be effective, it needs to be in direct sun light.  This means a southern exposure with no shading of trees or buildings.  As a rule of thumb the slope angle of the solar system should equal the corresponding latitude where it is installed.    A solar swimming pool system should be installed where it receives the maximum exposure for the greatest ROI.

 

For more information on solar heating systems for pools and spas visit www.solartubs.com

 

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Posted by: cedartubs | July 18, 2008

How to test a hot tub pump or spa pump for failure!

Question: How do I determine what is wrong with a pump?

 Difficulty= Medium

This aricle applies to Balboa VS501 or VS520 spa packs and may be different for other spa packs

Answer: When power is applied to the spa pack it goes into a power up sequence.  After the - - appears on the panel, the pump should start to run in low speed. If no flow  is produced (and it isn’t a simple problem like a plugged filter or suction screen, closed valve) the problem is either:

      a)       The spa pack receptacle into which the pump is plugged does not produce 230 or 120  volts ac, or

b)       230 or 120 volts is available at the pump motor terminals but the pump motor does not rotate or

c)       230 or 120 volts is available at the pump motor terminals and the motor rotates normally but the pump is not producing any flow.

 When tracing a pump problem you want to disconnect one terminal of the heater element.  Use two 3/8” wrenches to do so, so that you don’t twist off the element wire.  Above it states 230 or 120 volts. Which one applies depends on the pump motor installed and it depends on the W1 white wire jumper.  If this wire is attached to a RED AC terminal the voltage should be 230 volts.  If attached to a WHT AC terminal the voltage should be 120 Volts.  This is under the assumption that 230 volt service is being used.  If the service is only 120 volts then the voltage available is only 120 volts.

To check if  the problem is a) requires the use of an AC Voltmeter.  Once the power-on sequence is at or past the - - indication, insert the voltmeter leads into J23 (Pump1 receptacle).  They should be plugged into two middle pins. (2nd from bottom is common and the pin one up is low speed and top pin is high speed).  If the circuit board is functioning, then you’ll get 230  or 120 volts here.  If you do not get any voltage and you are sure service power is coming to the main terminals on the circuit board, then the problem lies either with the large fuse in the upper right hand corner of the circuit board or the circuit board itself is defective.   If the fuse is shot (open circuited) then you will measure 120 volts (from the neutral terminal) to its left side but 0 volts on the right side. A fuse will blow for a reason, such as shorted motor or a jammed pump.  Investigate this first before trying another fuse. See if you can spin the pump using a screw driver and inserting it into the slot at the back of the motor shaft with the cord unplugged. If the fuse is okay and the voltage is not appearing on J23, then the circuit board needs replacement.

The check for b) is to open the motor connection cover and test for 230 or 120 volts at the terminals where the white and black wires from the cable are attached.  If a) above checked out (you did have 230 or 120 volts at the circuit board’s J23 receptacle), then there should also be 230 or 120 volts at the motor terminals. If not there is something wrong with the cable or its connector(s).  If there is 230 or 120 volts at the motor terminals and the motor is humming or turning very slowly, the low speed start capacitor is likely gone.  If the motor is not spinning and there is very little or no noise, the motor is likely burned out or has an open circuit.  In either case the motor then needs to be replaced or repaired.

 The check for c) we describe will also check that there is water in the pump and piping.  Attach a hose to the hose bib.  Close the globe valve that is located after the outlet of the filter.  Open the hose bib valve so water flows out of the hose.  This confirms that water is in the pump and in the piping. Now raise the hose to the same level as the water line of the hot tub.  At this point it will stop flowing.  Turn on the power and wait for the pump motor to start turning.  If water then doesn’t flow out of the hose, at a significant rate,  the impeller isn’t turning properly, either because it’s jammed or because the plastic impeller shaft has sheered off.  In either case the wet end needs replacing or repairing.

Writen By Dieter Jung

Dieter is the VP of Engineering at Northern Lights Cedar Tubs Inc.  and has a vast degree of knowledge on electrical trouble shooting of hot tubs and spas.   dieter@cedartubs.com

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Posted by: cedartubs | July 2, 2008

Cleaning your cover

3  Tricks to Keeping your Hot Tub Cover Looking New

Maintaining a hot tub cover is very simple and can greatly increase the life expectancy.   However most owners fail to take much interest in their covers until it is two late.  A hot tub cover will eventually fade, crack or take on water and become very heavy.  Here are three tips to keeping your cover looking new.

  1. Clean cover regularly.  Most covers are made of an outdoor grade marine vinyl.  This vinyl has some resilience compared to indoor vinyl.  However it is very important to clean your cover with a specially designed cover cleaner.   I have seen a lot of hot tub owners use Armoral or other vinyl cleaner/shiner’s.  The problem with this is that afterwards the cleaner becomes a magnet for dust and airborne dirt.  While the shine may be short lived in the end the cover will actually attract more dirt.    The best method of cleaning a cover is to use hot soap water and a scrub brush.  I find dish soap works fine.  Be sure to rinse of the soap as you don’t want it to enter into the water.   A product such as cover restore  will both clean the cover and provides some added protection from the sun and more dirt.  This product will help to keep the cover from fading and cracking caused by sun.
  2. Check interior foam annually for cracks in vapor barrier.  All foam covers are wrapped in a plastic protective liner.  This stops the steam from entering the foam and becoming water logged.  However, over time the plastic can tear or seams can open.  Most covers have a zipper system that allows you to quickly remove the vinyl cover and check the foam.  If water or steam finds its way past this barrier you will notice quickly that your cover will become very heavy and needs replacing.  Check to ensure the cover is sealed.  Use packing tape to repair any seams or areas that may allow water into foam.  I recommend doing this once per year.
  3. Cover cover when storing for the season.  This may sound somewhat strange but by wrapping the hot tub in a plastic tarp you will greatly increase the life of the tub.  Keeping the cover dry and out of the sun is one of the best defenses against aging.  If you tend to close your tub for a few months then take the time to wrap it for storage.  A regular tarp and works best and will seal out rain, snow, and damaging sun.

Use these three tips and I guarantee you will double the life of your cover.

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Posted by: cedartubs | July 2, 2008

3 Secretes to Cleaner Hot Tub Water

3 ways to get Cleaner Hot Tub water while decreasing your sanitization levels.

 

I know most hot tub users are usually obsessed with clean water.  Most hot tub owners that I know will stop at nothing to have that perfect sparkle in their water.  This usually means opening up their pocket book to buy more replacement chemicals.  However clean water does not have to be expensive.  In fact with clean water you will reduce your chemical cost!

 

Here are three secretes that cost nothing and are more effective than any chemical I have come across in maintaining sparkling “fresh water”.

 

1.)    Change you filter often.  I can never say this enough.  All hot tub owners should have 2 filters, one being used in the tub and the other ready to go.  If you are like most, you change your filter every 2-3 months on a similar cycle as you change your water.   However you can double your water life if you simply increase the rate of filter changes.  2 weeks is ideal.   I suggest using a filter cleaner and canister such as www.cedartubsdirect.com sold by Northern Lights Cedar Tubs.  These are inexpensive and make quick work out of cleaning your filter.   A clean filter ensures proper water flow, and will ensure the finer particles get picked up.  Most hot tub filters have a bypass system that opens when there is a decrease in flow rate caused by a clogged filter.  When this happens your filter becomes useless as water is now by passing the system entirely.

 

2.)    Shower before entering hot tub.  You see this sign at public pools and spas everywhere.  Most often this is ignored and people hop into the hot tub with out 1st showering.  Have you ever taken a bath and looked at the ring of oil and dead skin that is left behind from just one bath?  This is perfect breeding material for bacteria in a hot tub.    By 1st showering, you will remove nearly 80% of the dead skin and oil from your body.  This means that your filter and sanitizers will work a lot less as there is much less foreign matter in the water.  In Japanese bathing soaking tubscalled Ofuros are used.  However in this tradition, one baths before entering the tub.  In this way the water in the Ofuro could be used many times before draining.

 

 

3.)    Don’t wash your bathing suite in the laundry.  Any one who owns a hot tub usually figures this one out after having lots of white sudsy bubbles.  These suds originate from bathing suits that contain residue from laundry soap.  Most laundry machines will leave a small amount of residual even after a thorough rinse cycle.  The phosphates left on the clothes end up in the hot tub.  The problem is not just bubbles which can be cured by products such as Anti Foam.  It is that Algae loves phosphates! This means “SLIME”.   What I suggest is keeping one set of bathing suite for your hot tub.  Clean it in warm sink water but not the washing machine.  You may also want to keep a couple guest shorts available. 

 

Practice these 3 simple techniques and I guarantee you will see a big increase in water clarity as well as a savings in your pocket as you will be using less chemicals.

 

 

About the author:

 

Dan Jung is owner and President of Northern Lights Cedar Tubs.  As a hot tub enthusiast Dan writes many articles on proper hot tub techniques.  Visit www.cedartubs.com for more information.

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